Robinson R22 preflight inspection.

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ROBINSON R22 COMPLETE PREFLIGHT INSPECTION

1. First we are going to check all documents on board the aircraft that need to be on the aircraft during each flight

We need to have the air warning certificate and registration

2. We also need to have the pilot operating handbook and the weight and balance specific to each aircraft.

3. Now turn on master battery switch.

4. And we are going to check our fuel tanks and make sure that we have enough fuel in our main fuel tank and our auxiliary fuel tank and since our engine not running. Our oil light should be ON. Indicating that we don't have any oil pressure. And our alternator light should be ON. Indicating that our alternator is not functioning

5. After we turn on the master battery switch the carbon monoxide light will flash twice as it does a self check on the carbon monoxide system

6. We are going to test our warning light system. The warning light test strip is located behind the cowldoor

7. First button is for main Rotor temp light.

8. The second button is our main Rotor chip light

9. The 3rd button is for a tail rotor chip light

10. The last button is for a low fuel light.

11. Next to all these switches are 2 fuses. And we just need to make sure that these are tight

12. After we done testing our warning lights. We are going to shut down the. master battery switch so that we don't run down the battery.

13. The Next we are going to check fuel cap. We want to make sure that it is tight the way that we can make sure that it is tight is there is white line part of that white line is the fuel cap itself the other part is on aircraft and it should line up together.

14. Next we want to do is open up cowldoor and check underneath our fuel tank and make sure it's not leaking or anything like that.

15. The next we are going to check gearbox oil. The gearbox oil is located on the side of our main rotor gearbox.

16. And we are going to check that sight glass and it should be at least half full of gearbox oil.

17. Next we are going to check in main rotor brake behind our main rotor gearbox there's a little lever and we are going to lift up on that lever. And we are going to lift up on that lever to check the main rotor brake and we are also going to fill along the cable to make sure that it is not fraying at all.

18. While the cowldoor is open we are going to check a few more things. We are going to check our flex coupling and our yoke flanges. We are going to check that they have no cracks and that the nuts are tight and that the torque stripe are in place.

Check gearbox teletemp to make sure that it is normal.

Check spragg clutch that there's no leaks. We are going to check our static source that it is clear that there is nothing blocking our static source

Now check control Rod ends that they are free without excessive looseness. And Check steel tube frame.

19. On the inside of our upper sheave and what is attached to our driveline is the spragg clutch. We are checking along that seam between the spragg clutch and the upper sheave to make sure there's no oil coming out.

20. Inside the cowldoor is the static source it's white tube and we are checking to make sure that it is clear and that there's nothing blocking it.

21. When we check the control Rod ends we are checking to make sure that it is free without looseness so this should be able to rotate around that joint. But it shouldn't be able to move laterally on that joint

22. We are also checking the nuts to make sure that the torque stripe are in place.

23. When we are checking the steel tube framing. We are checking all the steel tube framing that we can see inside the cowldoor and check there for any cracks in the paint or in the metal.

24. We are checking the fasteners. We are checking all these fasteners that hold on all these wires along the steel tube framing and we are making sure that they are all tight that nothing is loose.

25. Next we are going to check is tail rotor control Rod. We are going to move back make sure that. It is free to move and that there's nothing blocking that movement. after we are done. We can shut the cowldoor and move on the next section of our preflight inspection

26. When we check the right side the engine basically what we want we are checking for is to make sure that there's no oil leaks no fuel leaks make sure that all the torque stripes are in place and that there's nothing that loose.

27. We are going to check our Carb Air ducts. Make sure that everything is secure

28. We are going to check our Carb heat scoop. We are going to check to make sure that there's no cracks.

29. Next we are going to check engine sheet metal.

30. Next we are going to check electrical terminal. So we are checking our spark plugs making sure that they are all tight.

31. We are going to check fuel line there's an orange line that goes to our carburetor make sure that there's no fuel leaks.

32. Next we are checking oil cooler door make sure there's no debris

33. Then we are going to check of fuel lines.

34. Next we are going to check exhaust system.

35. Next we are going to check the V belt condition. We are going to check to make sure there's no cracks in our V belts. Make sure there's no excessive looseness.

36. We are going to check the spragg clutch to make sure that it is not leaking any oil and the upper bearing that it is not leaking any oil as well. We are going to check the teletemp on the upper bearing to make sure that it's normal.

37. Now we are going to check the lower sheave.

38. We are going to check yoke flanges make sure that there's no cracks and that the nuts are tight.

39. We are going to check the steel tubes

40. We are going to check the cooling fan nut then we are going to check the cooling fan and fan scroll. Make sure there's no cracks on the back of the scroll cage blower is a lower bearing with a teletemp on the lower bearing.

41. Now we are going to check the tail cone surface and we are going to check all the attachment as well as. We are going to check all rivets. Make sure that none of them are missing or loose or check for any dents or cracks we are checking our anti collision light and tail rotor guard.

42. Right now we are checking the tail rotor

43. First we are going to check the sight glass

44. We are also going to check the control Rod ends and bell cranks.

45. We are gonna back our pitch links make sure that there's no looseness.

46. And we are going to check our teeter bearing

47. We are also going to check the antenna. Make sure that's secure and tight

48. Next we are going to check the attachments bolts

49. Now we are checking the engine oil. We are gonna check that the oil is between 4 and 6 quarters

50. Next we should be check oil filter. Make sure that there's no leaks

51. The next thing we are going to check fuel lines. We have a hard fuel line that runs from our main fuel tank down to our gas glider bulb and then a soft fuel line that runs from our gas glider bulb to our carburetor.

52. We are going to check our throttle linkage make sure that it is operable so we are going to raise up on the collective to watch to make sure that the linkage moves

53. Next we are going to check our battery and our relay make sure that they are secure

54. We are going to check our alternator belt tension make sure that it is tight

55. We are going to check our steel tube rame to make sure that there's no cracks or damage in our steel tube frame

56. Then we are going to check our engine sheet metal make sure that there's no cracks make sure that all of our bolts are in place

57. Then we are going to check our exhaust system again

58. Now we are going to check our main fuel tank we want to visually inspect it. Make sure we put filler cap back on and then it's tight and that lines match up

59. Now we are checking our main rotor system. The first thing on our checklist is our blades. The easiest way to check our blades is to push up on the back which will tilt our front blade forward you never want to pull down on the blade. You always want to push up on the other blade

60. Next we are going to check pitch change boots inside each one of the blades

61. The next we are going to check main rotor hinge bolts so we have 3 hinge bolts

62. We are going to check for cotter pins

63. We are going to check pitch jam nut

64. Then we are going to check for a pitch safety wire make sure that it is in place

65. Next we are gonna check swash plate scissor make sure that it is not loose

66. Now we are going to check the fuselage. First we are going to check underneath the seat in the baggage conportment. We are gonna undo the seatbelt and what are checking for is any unexpected to reattach our seatbelt. Make sure our seatbelt works properly. Then we are going to shut the door make sure it latches

67. Now we are going to check our door itself make sure that our cotter pins are in that everything's good

68. Then we are going to check our position light make sure it's attached. if you are gonna be flying at night you should be turn it on. And make sure that it works

69. Now we are going to check is skids to make sure that our grand landing wheel is removed and that they are okay 👌 when we get to the other side of the helicopter We would check the same exact thing

70. Next we are going to check is nose of our helicopter. First we are going to check pitot tube it's located up the mast make sure that there's no bugs in the pitot tube

71. Next we are going to check is the windshield. To make sure that it's clean that there's no cracks

72. Next we are going to check our fresh air vents

73. Now we are going to check landing lights

CLICK 👉 ROBINSON R22 HANDBOOK

CLICK 👉 PREFLIGHT INSPECTION

CLICK 👉 BEFORE STARTING ENGINE

CLICK 👉 STARTING ENGINE AND RUN-UP

CLICK 👉 SHUTDOWN PROCEDURE

CLICK 👉 FLIGHT AND MANEUVER LIMITATIONS

CLICK 👉 KINDS OF OPERATION LIMITATIONS

CLICK 👉 FUEL LIMITATIONS

CLICK 👉 POWER FAILURE - GENERAL